My opinion on Lilial, PFAS & Capixyl

Products

27 Nov

Did you know that your scalp is highly absorbent and can absorb toxins, making it up to four times more absorbent than other skin on the body? The most absorbent parts of the scalp are the hair follicles and scalp pores. When toxins come into contact with the scalp, they can be absorbed and enter the bloodstream. In this blog, we will cover Lilial, PFAS and Capixyl along with what Monat products they may be in.

While many people report achieving good results with various hair care products, there are longstanding and increasingly growing complaints from consumers who are experiencing harm. These concerns include significant issues such as hair loss, burns, painful scalp sores, and severe itchiness. Additionally, some individuals are reporting anecdotal hormonal imbalances, which may manifest as menstrual irregularities and fertility issues, which they believe are linked to their use of certain products.

Lilial

Butylphenyl methylpropional, commonly known as Lilial, is a synthetic fragrance ingredient that has been widely used in cosmetic and personal care products. Its distinct floral scent made it a popular choice for perfumes, lotions, and other beauty products. However, as awareness of chemical safety and regulatory measures has increased, Lilial has come under scrutiny, sparking discussions about its safety and role in cosmetic formulations.

Emergence and Popularity
Lilial was first introduced in the 1970s as a synthetic alternative to natural floral scents. Over the years, it became a staple in the formulation of various products, adding a pleasant scent to items such as shampoos, conditioners, and body washes. Its strong, long-lasting fragrance made it an attractive option for brands looking to enhance the olfactory experience of their products.

Safety and Regulatory Challenges
Despite its popularity among consumers and brands alike, Lilial faced significant regulatory challenges, particularly in the European market. In 2020, the European Commission classified it as a substance of very high concern due to its potential to cause allergies and reproductive toxicity, raising serious health and safety concerns. This classification resulted in strict restrictions on its use in various cosmetic products, compelling many brands to reformulate their products in order to eliminate this controversial ingredient. One notable company, Monat, has claimed that they updated all their products to comply with the stringent European standards; however, reports indicate that a few years later, they are still allegedly distributing old packaging to Australia, raising questions about their commitment to adherence.

Monat products that have had Butylphenyl methylpropional listed on the label may include the Renew Shampoo, Volume Revive Shampoo, Volume Revitalise Conditioner, Replenish Masque, Restore Leave-In Conditioner, Smoothing Deep Conditioner, Flex Control Hairspray and The Champ Dry Shampoo. (Source)

Per and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances (PFAS)

In recent years, the discussion surrounding various cosmetic ingredients has notably expanded to include numerous compounds such as Tetrafluoropropene and Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2, both of which are classified as per-and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS). PFAS represent a diverse group of human-made chemicals that have been linked to a range of harmful health effects, subsequently leading to increased regulatory scrutiny and public concern. These substances break down very slowly in the environment, and some can accumulate in the bodies of humans, animals, and ecosystems over time, posing significant potential health risks that are becoming the focus of ongoing research.

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics (CSC) leads the movement to make beauty and personal care products safer for all. They have created an extensive list of the most frequently found PFAS in cosmetics to help inform consumers. Promisingly, New Zealand is leading the way with banning these so-called “forever chemicals” in cosmetics from 2026, read about it here.

Tetrafluoropropene: is often used as a propellant in aerosol products and has raised concerns due to its environmental persistence and potential health risks. Also known as HFO-1234ze or 1,3,3,3-tetrafluoropropene.

Monat’s The Champ Dry Shampoo, Moxie Magnifying Mousse, Glossy Shine Mist, Texture Spray and Hair Spray all contain Tetrafluoropropene. (Source)

“The European Chemical Agency (ECHA) defines PFAS as substances that contain at least one fully fluorinated methyl (CF3-) or methylene (-CF2-) carbon atom. HFO-1234ze(E) contains a CF3 group. In January 2023, ECHA proposed restricting PFAS, including HFO-1234ze(E), and other single component refrigerants. If accepted, the proposal would take effect in 2025 with an 18-month transition period.” Government department NICNAS now known as Australian Industrial Chemicals Introduction Scheme (AICIS) released a Public Report in August 2013 which covers the Human Health Implications.

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2: while sometimes used in anti-aging formulations, has also faced criticism for potentially contributing to environmental and health issues associated with PFAS chemicals. Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide, as a compound, contains the trifluoroacetyl group, which does include fluorine atoms. This raises concerns because fluorine-containing compounds, like those in PFAS, are known for their persistence in the environment and in the human body. While Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide is a peptide designed for skincare, the presence of fluorine suggests that it could indeed belong to the broader category of PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances).

Monat’s Rewind Age Control Nectar, Be Balanced Cleanser & Moisturiser, Be Gentle Cleanser & Moisutriser, Eye Smooth Serum, Eye Smooth Cream and all Concealers contain Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2. (Source)

Monat claims that their product features Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide 2, which they describe as their “exclusive peptide.” However, there is compelling evidence suggesting that Progeline™ FF, developed by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (the same company responsible for producing Capixyl), is indeed a Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide that is manufactured without PFAS. According to sources, “Progeline™ FF is crafted through a process that is allegedly PFAS-free and more environmentally friendly.” This particular peptide has gained popularity and is utilised by numerous cosmetic companies in their formulations. It is important to note that there are currently no long-term studies available that evaluate the effects or benefits of Progeline. Furthermore, considering that Monat does not mention the brand name ‘Progeline’ in their marketing materials, we can only reasonably deduce that they are utilising Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide in their products, as indicated by the Environmental Working Group (EWG).

Capixyl

Capixyl is a peptide complex (Acetyl tetrapeptide-3) mixed with red clover extract, formulated by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics, a leading innovator in personal care products. Red clover extract is rich in biochanin A, a natural DHT blocker known to support hair growth and reduce shedding by regulating the hormone that damages hair follicles. This compound is often used in hair growth formulas due to its potency to minimize the conversion of testosterone to DHT in androgenic alopecia.

Because of its phytoestrogens, red clover is also commonly used by women to support common menopausal symptoms such as hot flashes, mood swings, and night sweats. The isoflavones in red clover appear to bind with estrogen receptor sites, preventing certain forms of estrogen such as estradiol and/or excess estrogen from accumulating. However, this is typically in it’s whole herbal state. When it’s converted to an extract it becomes highly concentrated.

Unfortunately, there is no long-term studies available on Capixyl but we do know that some individuals, especially with estrogen dominance, are reporting side effects. The Herbal Acadamy has written extensively on red clover extract for pregnancy and breastfeeding. This article has many references you may wish to explore. As we are still in experimental stages, there is no definitive conclusion here but my intent is to explain what I’ve observed to help anyone who has experienced harm.

Most Monat haircare products contain Capixyl. (Source)

Final Words

When I first registered with Monat, I genuinely trusted that the company was “naturally based” and as low in toxins as they claimed to be. The mum leading our team is quite well known for her thorough research, so it is particularly disheartening that none of this crucial information was disclosed to us. Even worse was the endless gaslighting I experienced upon bringing my concerns to her attention. They say never meet your idol, and in my case, that certainly rings true, as this experience has proven to be quite disillusioning.

Monat states “When it comes to the safety of our products, we maintain an unwavering commitment to using only ingredients determined safe for their intended use by credible third parties such as the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (CIR) in the USA and the Scientific Committee of Consumer Safety (SCCS) in Europe”. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to personally locate any of the ingredients listed in this blog. Nor have I been provided any current third-party studies for any of the products.

As consumers become more informed and discerning about what exactly is low tox, the beauty industry must adapt by reformulating products and exploring safer, more sustainable ingredient options. The commitment to safety, efficacy, and environmental responsibility will be key to shaping the future of cosmetics.

Product label deciphering websites:

Disclaimer

This blog is intended purely to communicate information in accordance with the right of free speech. Any advice given is a suggestion and anyone seeking such advice should consult a competent professional, e.g. Accountant, Doctor etc. All statements made in this blog are my own opinion and they do not represent any other person or body. As such, sharing matters covered in this blog is in the public interest. This content is covered by fair use and fair dealing as the purpose is to provide consumer education and commentary.

Lady Whistleblower